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Into the tribal heart

Into the tribal heart

East, India, Odisha
My Eastern Ghats tribal adventure began with a shaky start. The jumping off base of Raygada arrived at pre dawn and I felt my first tremors of anxiety as I got off at a nearly primitive train station. It was pitch dark with a handful of stars glittering coldly and I could only see glowing red ends of cigarettes moving ominously on faceless crowds. There was no electricity and suddenly from somewhere somebody clutched my hand. Startled out of my skin, I nearly screamed out loud, when my guide Sarat Routray welcomed me to the tribal belt of beautiful Odisha. With the help of his flashlight we skipped across the railway tracks and walked for some time through a tunnel of…
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