maverickbirdHydra or Ýdhra as it is also known as took my breath away at first sight. I remember the tour guide introducing this timeless Greek island as the home of the rich and the famous. I also recall sighing at this introduction and thinking that the prettiest places were always the homes of the rich and the famous. It just seemed unfair because Hydra is indeed one of the most photogenic and atmospheric destinations in Greece. A part of the quintessential Saronic Gulf day trip itinerary, the island shot to fame after a couple of Hollywood movies got filmed there. Later, it became even more popular when many international celebrities started restoring local old villas and called them their pied-à-terre. Located in the Aegean Sea between the gulfs of Saronic and Argolic, even though it is separated from the Peloponnese mainland by a narrow strip of water, history has left its stamp on its landscape.
Timeless Hydra
Table of Contents
Rise and fall of Hydra
The island, which was much populated during the Byzantine era, once belonged to Venice. This was before the Ottoman Empire took over. Because of its hilly inland interiors which were not favourable for living, Hydra was relatively unimportant during most of the Ottoman period. The 17th century, however, saw a flurry of activity, and the Hydra was selected as a base for naval and commercial development. The island got its first school for mariners in 1645 and over the years, Hydra morph into an important commercial port. The naval activity which was the lifeline of Hydra continued into the 19th century. The island’s seafaring merchants amassed unbelievable amounts of wealth from trading with countries such as Spain, France, the Americas, etc. The fate of the Greek War of Independence also depended heavily on Hydriot’s fleet of ships and the Greek hero, admiral Andreas Miaoulis, hailed from Hydra. After the Independence war, Hydra’s importance waned and World War II practically turned it into a ghost town.
Perfect day trip from Athens
Sponge fishing and tourism, however, saved Hydra from getting completely abandoned, and from the 1950s onward, the island gained popularity among celebrities and the wealthy. The reason for this popularity is easy to see and Hydra’s bustling harbour, narrow cobbled streets and exquisitely preserved stone architecture make it a very alluring place. I visited Hydra on a Saronic Gulf sailing day trip and till today, it is my favourite place in the whole of Greece. This day trip is a very popular activity from Athens and usually includes sailing between Hydra, Aegina, and Poros islands on a small luxury cruise boat. Lunch, relaxed sailing, and some local music are included in the trip and the guide usually takes the group on tours of these islands. This activity is offered by many companies and all the boats leave from the fashionable Piraeus Port. My tour started on a clear blue day and when we sailed away from Athens, the sun was sparkling on the Aegean Sea like a thousand diamonds. Dolphins glided alongside our boat and snow-white gulls swooped between the waves. The flat calm scenery was broken by small isolated islands that seemed to rise out of the blue sheet of water. It was a great day to be out in the sun and thanks to the trip, I avoided the demonstration which crippled all activities in Athens.
The gorgeous port of Hydra
Poros was the first island to arrive on that trip and the so-called playground of the rich and famous did not impress me much. The pastel-coloured mansions dotting the port were pretty and lime trees scented the sunny island air. Apart from that, a quick walk up to an elevated viewpoint was its only charm. Hydra, however, was breathtakingly beautiful and the first sight of its famous port took my breath away. Touted as the most beautiful port in all of Greece, Hydra’s harbour was horseshoe-shaped. A whaleback ridge rose immediately behind the busy port village and cafes, souvenir shops, and restaurants crowded the waterfront. Hydra’s famous carrier donkeys stood in rows at the port and in the background, one could see lovely red tile-roofed mansions precariously clinging along the slopes. It was most picturesque. Motor vehicles, with the exception of garbage trucks, are banned in Hydra and the traditional mode of transportation helped the island preserve its timeless aura.
White-washed stone mansions
Island where motor cars are banned
Although the lack of stunning beaches, archaeological sites, and museums took Hydra down a few notches in the usual Greek island tourism list, the quaint charm and unexplored interiors made it simply irresistible in my eyes. I was delighted with the place. There was a happy smile on my face as I walked around the little port for more than 1 hour, taking in the beauty of marble pavements, stone mansions, and a blue sky that spanned overhead. Charming old-fashioned shops and markets bustled with residents and clip-clop of donkey hooves filled the air. Secluded little squares complete with stone benches, orange trees, and restored old mansions of erstwhile seamen made great walks and a relaxing stupor pervaded the island. Sunshine created a pretty dappled patchwork on the cobbled streets and tawny cats prowled through Hydra’s monasteries, most of which had been dedications of erstwhile wealthy sea merchants. Nobody seemed to be in a hurry and the residents called out to each other from wrought iron balconies. Every road on the island wound its way to the harbour and people-watching seemed to be the residents’ favourite pastime.
An overpowering timeless aura
Apart from the monasteries, a few forgettable museums, a very old pharmacy, and a few handmade gold jewelry shops had completed Hydra’s “things to do” list and my hour of exploration had stretched longer than I had expected. So, I did what most Hydriots and visitors do at Hydra i.e sit at a sidewalk cafe, order a cup of tea and watch people as they went about their way. The Greek island seemed to be an enchanted place then; a small black hole of time where loveliness emanated from everything – its lovely cubist arrangement of houses with their whitewashed glare, the old cobbled paths, and the way large fragrant citrus fruits had hung from the trees like a thousand suns. It was a struggle to stay awake and I almost wanted to stretch out on one of the benches under a citrus tree, put a handkerchief on my face, and sleep. It reminded me of the stupor that Dorothy felt among the fields of poppies in the story ‘The Wizard of Oz’ and Hydra does indeed overpower its visitors like an opiate.
Inside one of the old monasteries in Hydra
Hydra Travel Guide
How to Reach
The easiest way to enjoy Hydra is by a day trip from Athens. This includes stopovers at Poros and Aegina islands along with transfers from the hotel, lunch, and entertainment. Frequent ferries ply between Piraeus and Hydra and these tickets can be bought online or from agencies at the harbour. All vessels, hydrofoils, and catamarans dock at the center of the north side of the island at Hydra’s famous photogenic port and nearly everything of interest also lies on the waterfront.
Where to Stay in Hydra
Motorized vehicles are forbidden on Hydra and the only modes of transportation are donkeys or boat taxis, both of which congregate at the port. There are many choices of accommodations available at Hydra and from small hotels and guest houses to beautiful old villas, the island is idyllic for long-term visitors too. Some Hydra accommodations are accessible only by steep stairs and it is advisable to ask about this, at the time of booking.
Things to Do
Despite the stone steps, the port which is also the main village of Hydra is very easy to walk around on foot and the mountainous little-visited interiors are great for hiking. The smaller villages of Kamini, Mandraki, Episkopi, etc can be accessed by steep hikes and walkers will be greeted with sweeping views of hamlets of rural cottages, grain terraces, hilltop monasteries, pine forests, and seasonal carpets of wildflowers. Horseback excursions by Harriet’s Hydra Horses into interior Hydra are also a great way of exploring the wild island and the trip length varies from 45 minutes to all day. Hydra’s beaches can be accessed only by walking and Limnióniza is considered to be the most beautiful of them all. The nearby island Spétses makes an excellent excursion from Hydra and it is also the remotest of the Argo Saronic group of isles. Otherwise, the little port has the Hydra Museum, Cathedral of Hydra, some beautifully restored old Hydriot mansions, and lots of artist galleries and gold jewelry designer stores. The best time to visit Hydra is during Easter when the island celebration begins on Holy Thursday and continues until a grand fireworks display on Saturday at midnight.
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