maverickbirdTo like Delphi is very easy. To understand it, however, is like reading an entire high-brow book and not getting much of it in one go. Even after tediously plodding through the pages, you miss out on most of the plot, chronological order, and sense. It makes you wonder if you are not as bright as you think yourself to be and so, you continue to either keep reading the book until you figure it out or just put it away quietly. Most prefer the second option when it comes to Delphi, and the ancient Greek religious sanctuary is a tough riddle to decipher. Its historical and mythological importance are so deeply enmeshed that you tend to lose your way among its stories and myths and then there are various Greek legends attached to it. Try imagining Zeus, Apollo, Mother Earth, Pythian Games (very similar to Olympic Games), historical course-changing wars, and powerful kings connected with one site and you have the mystical special place called Delphi.
Delphi is located on the mighty Mt Parnassus
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The immense importance of Delphi
Located on the mighty Mt. Parnassus near the Gulf of Corinth, the spiritual sanctuary was home to the famous oracle of Apollo where the Pythian priestess muttered cryptic predictions to city-states and individuals. Their purpose was to guide them in their important decisions. Additionally, athletes from all over ancient Greece met there once every four years to compete in the famous Pythian Games. The site which has been inhabited since the late Bronze Age gained a lot of religious importance in 800 BC. The original name of Delphi was supposedly Pytho and it was named after Python, the serpent which was guarding the site. Apollo is believed to have killed Python and it was renamed Delphi i.e dolphin, the form which the young god took to arrive there. Delphi is also believed to be the center of the world in Greek mythology and the historical twists and turns influenced by it are enough to make your head spin. Like a real potboiler, its thrill heightens with every new discovery, and the site’s layered mythology, fun facts about its oracles, and architectural grandeur are guaranteed to make you say, “Whoa..slow down”.
It is steeped in mythological importance
Delphi and its magical oracles
Funnily enough, the best way to experience Delphi is by taking it slow. Arrive, take in the beauty, and the magical aura of the place, start exploring and let the site reach out to you. Many travellers and visitors swear that Delphi spoke with them, revealed its mysticism, and made them feel its special powers. And there is no doubt that Delphi is an extraordinary place. Once an eternal flame burned in the Temple of Apollo in Delphi and a Pythian priestess delivered world-famous oracles at its site. The priestess was an elderly village woman, who inhaled ethylene gasses and chanted her prophecies from a tripod. It was placed right above the chasm in which Python, the serpent had supposedly lived. Coincidentally, light hydrocarbon gasses were also released from the same chasm over which Pythia sat and she would consistently inhale the trance-inducing vapours before uttering oracles. A trusted priest would then interpret her mutterings in hexameter verse and Delphi oracles always had more than one interpretation. They were, however, regarded as closest to the truth in the world of pre-classical Greece and this made Delphi rise in importance.
Delphi was famous for its miraculous oracles
The rising eminence of Delphi
Though Delphi‘s importance peaked during the 6th century BC, it was a popular site throughout history. It served both city-states and individuals alike and much advice was dispensed in matters of war, worship, business, marriage, love, and voyages. Upon arrival, the pilgrims had to pay a fixed fee which included the sacrifice of a goat, boar, or bull and it was mandatory for the visitors to wash their hair in the water of the nearby Castalian spring, before entering the holy site. Murderers had to wash their whole bodies and the pilgrims submitted their queries inscribed on lead tablets. Such was the popularity of Delphi‘s oracles, that its affluent patrons paid huge sums of wealth to bypass long queues which snaked to the holy site. Wealth and importance made Delphi become the reason for conflict between Athens, Phokia, and Sparta.
Delphi was also the site of the famous Pythian Games
The fall of Delphi
They all wanted Delphi and this prompted a series of Sacred Wars. However, with the King of Macedonia‘s conquest of southern Greece, this rivalry dissolved forever and Delphi stepped down to a less godly level. Under, Macedonian and Roman rule, the oracles delivered at Delphi became increasingly domestic and trivial in nature. Patrons arrived seeking advice on marriages, loans, health, and voyages. The Romans, who preferred the treasures of Delphi more than its oracles, plundered the site heartlessly and in 391 AD, Theodosius ended its spiritual influence forever.
Rediscovery of Delphi
Like most archaeological sites in the world, Delphi slowly got lost in the pages of time until it was rediscovered at the end of the 17th century. Excavation work commissioned by the French School of Archaeology began in 1892 and by 1903, most of the restoration work was complete. Delphi once again rose to fame and the eagle nest Greek town became a popular tourist attraction. Bus loads of day trippers from Athens visit Delphi every day and the site combined with Meteora is one of the most sought-after short tours from the capital city. It is most busy during summer months and on clear days sweepings views of the sea can be seen from its cliffside location.
My spring visit to Delphi
My visit in 2016
I visited Delphi on a cold February morning in 2016. Spring had not yet started in full swing and the sky was grey with blustery clouds. Delphi was empty except for a few stray cats and wayward visitors. Wildflowers carpeted the slopes and the valleys in various colours and plums and cherries were heavy with blooms. Fluffy masses of delicate pink and white flowers poked their heads at every hairpin turn of the journey and the sharp crags of Parnassus were beautifully golden. Though intrigued by the fantastic ancient Greek mythology, my visit to Delphi had nothing to do with its special spiritual fame. Athens was in political turmoil at the time of my visit and roadblocks had crippled the capital city. An escape from Athens meant going away somewhere nearby and visiting Delphi (with Meteora) seemed like a very good idea.
First impressions of Delphi
Being pregnant, I opted for a small group tour and it also helped me escape the hassle of navigating out of roadblocks on my own. The drive to Delphi was forgettable. Greek mainland countryside fled past in various states of disrepair and occasional lively towns were interspersed in between. Delphi arrived with breathtaking views and dense olive plantations and we quickly huddled towards the famous museum of the popular archaeological site. Rivaled only by Athens Acropolis, the museum contained many rare and exceptional exhibits and it provided much-needed warmth before the site exploration. Delphi is located along the steep slopes of various levels, and the Sanctuary of Apollo is the gateway to them all. Beyond the Sanctuary of Apollo are the Treasury, the Bouleuterion or the council house, the Sanctuary of Gaia, etc. Somewhere between them, lie the proud remains of Athenian Stoa, stadium, and theatre, and beyond these, the fringes of cool, dark pine start. A winding way leads one to the Marmaria or the marble quarry and further away is the famous Castalian spring.
It is believed to be the center of the earth
A beautiful place with a complicated history
I found Delphi to be a mixed bag of impressions. The natural beauty was jaw dripping and its archaeological layers were difficult for me to comprehend in one visit. Then, there was the aura of its gripping mythological power and I kept stumbling over all these facets. I gave up hiking all the way to the top after climbing a few tiers and chose, instead to sit on one of the benches alone. With most of the visitors gone, silence reigned in Delhi. Except for a few quintessential Greek stray cats the site was completely mine for some time. There was no doubt in my mind that Delphi was a very ‘special’ place. Simply sitting there among the ruins and breathing in the sweet smell of wildflowers and mountain pines felt magical. Though cold and gloomy, the sky cast a fine silvery light and Delphi glowed like columns and walls of gold.
The center of the earth
They say, that in ancient Greece, Zeus, the king of Gods, released two eagles, which flew in opposite directions – eastwards and westwards. Both of them met above Delphi and after impaling one another with their beaks, they crashed to the ground. Zeus then threw the Sacred Stone, marking the center of the earth – the navel of the world. Visiting Delphi, was like going on a trip to the center of the earth; a free fall into history, mythology, human greed, and beliefs.
Delphi Travel Tips
Delphi is a UNESCO World Heritage Site near a modern village bearing the same name. It is around 178 kilometers from Athens.
How to Reach
Public Transport – Delphi has daily KTEL coach connections from Athens (3 hours away), Thessaloniki (4.5 hours away), and Patra (2 hours away). There are also regular train services from Athens and Thessaloniki. The nearest railhead is at Amfissa and from there one can take a local bus to the site.
Organized Group Tours – Most companies offer day trips from Athens to Delphi and the price varies highly depending on the season and comfort level. You can pay from 80-150 euros for the trip and the one-way ride takes about 3 hours. These trips include a guided tour of the Delphi museum, the site, and a transfer. You can also buy a combined tour of Delphi and Meteora which includes a transfer, a guided visit to both places, and accommodation at Meteora.
Things to See and Do, Where to Stay
Things not to miss at Delphi are the Charioteer and the Sphinx at the museum, the Temple of Apollo, the Ancient Stadium, the Ancient Theatre, and the Athena Pronea Sanctuary. There are quite a few hotels and guesthouses in modern Delphi and the restaurants there offer local cuisine. The prices may seem steep as it is a popular tourist destination. Many like to go for hikes, cycling trips, and treks into the mountains from there.
Located along the steep slopes
Delphi was an unforgettable experience.
It became a bone of contention
Among the various Greek city-states.
The first sight of Delphi in spring
Took my breath away.
The grand archaeological site
Contained temples of the gods
And was the playground
Of the rich and the powerful.
Associated with legends
And covered with flowers
Discovering Delphi on that spring day
Was an experience of a lifetime.
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