Ranthambore National Park safari: SCAM ALERT

Sawai Madhopur lives off Ranthambore National Park. In fact, that is the only reason why most travellers venture to this sleepy town in Rajasthan, and in my opinion, it is the only saving grace for this place. The town serves as a quick getaway destination for people living in Jaipur and Delhi. Moreover, there is indeed a substantial number of tigers and other wildlife in the Ranthambore National Park. Perhaps I am too hasty in ticking off this place as negative as I stayed here for only 2 days but for us that was more than enough. While searching online, I found many websites selling an exotic dream of a thrilling wildlife safari holiday. To quote one, `This destination, rich in history, culture, and natural beauty, has a unique allure that transcends the typical tourist experience. Whether you’re a seasoned traveler seeking your next adventure, a wildlife enthusiast on the lookout for thrilling encounters, a culture vulture craving immersion in rich traditions, or a foodie ready to tantalize your taste buds with exotic flavors, Sawai Madhopur Ranthambore will not disappoint.` That is all utter bunkum because Sawai Madhopur is disappointing and a safari was a horrible experience. Did we see the promised tiger? – Yes. Yet, the safari at Ranthambore National Park was a huge SCAM.

View from the top of Ranthambore Fort

Table of Contents

A Safari or a SCAM: it´s BOTH

Marketed as an extraordinary experience to see the big cat up close, the Ranthambore National Park safari is the biggest scam in India. First of all, most of the ´official´ forest guides who accompany you do not care a button about either the forest or any of the other wildlife that Ranthambore abounds in. They go looking for a tiger and for that purpose, do not give a moment to the visitors to enjoy the forest, which is especially beautiful in the mornings. The canters are over-crowded buses and the 3-hour ride is extremely bumpy and fast. You risk injuring yourselves badly if you don´t hold on tight and DO NOT ATTEMPT IT WITH CHILDREN, INFANTS, PREGNANT WOMEN, or the ELDERLY. Secondly, the harassment you face from these guides for tips the moment you step inside the canter is absolutely unacceptable. The most important factor is the lack of proper information on safari prices and booking procedures. The official Rajasthan tourism website does not work most of the time and the private operators simply scalp the tourists. They overcharge, mislead, and underdeliver. Ranthambore National Park safari was the worst experience I ever had in my traveling career and I have visited more than 75 countries and lived on 3 different continents. My suggestion is to avoid Ranthambore completely and head over to the better-organized national parks in the south.

A spotted deer

A magnificent old forest

Ranthambore National Park, on the other hand, is a completely different story. It is a gorgeous semi-arid jungle that is dotted with ruins of old hunting lodges and a fort. There are hills, dry river beds, gnarly old trees, and grasslands. Different types of deer graze through it in herds, crocodiles lie sunbathing on the banks of the lakes, and peacocks dance madly underneath its old flora. The pesky Rhesus monkeys and silvery monkeys chatter from wreath-like branches and birds of different kinds roost among the old stones of the fort. In the midst of all this life, often two jewel-like eyes of the predator stare silently and the forest noise breaks out in crescendo as a magnificent striped tiger makes a move. This sighting is more often than not as Ranthambore National Park has around 89 tigers.

A beautiful dry, deciduous forest

Rich in flora and fauna and ruins

Located in south-eastern Rajasthan about 130 km from Jaipur, Ranthambore National Park was the famous hunting grounds of the erstwhile Maharajahs of Jaipur. It lies at the meeting point of two large hill ranges and is very popular among wildlife enthusiasts and photographers from all over the world. Spread over an area of 400 sq km, it is bounded by the Banas River and the Chambal River in the north and south respectively. In the beginning, the site was only a wildlife sanctuary and it became a tiger reserve in 1973. In the year 1981, the place received its national park status and it is considered to be one of the largest national parks in northern India. Apart from a rich and varied fauna, Ranthambore National Park has a fort after which the park has been named. Two important ranges: Vindhyas and Aravallis surround it and there are many water bodies inside the park. These are home to crocodiles, fishes, frogs, other amphibians and reptiles, and migratory birds flock here in winter. The vegetation is mostly semi-arid and they turn into a beautiful golden colour when dry, thus creating a wonderful camouflage for the tigers. Overall, the park has at least 45 species of reptiles, 300 different species of migratory and resident birds, and 40 species of mammals. All this makes Ranthambore National Park a wildlife paradise, right? Well, we thought not. However, don´t go by my bad experience. Visit Ranthambore National Park and see it for yourself. After all, you are in the tiger country and there is no greater thrill than being in close proximity with dangerous wild animals.

Can you see the crocodile on the bank?

Ranthambore National Park Travel Tips

How to Reach:

Ranthambore National Park is easily reachable from all major cities in India.

By Train: The nearest railhead is at Sawai Madhopur. It is 10 km from the park. Tourists can avail of local buses, taxis, or autorickshaws to reach the park directly or go to a hotel in Sawai Madhopur.

By Air: The nearest airport is Sanganer International Airport in Jaipur. Tourists can take a direct taxi or bus from Sanganer Airport to Ranthambore.

By Road: Ranthambore is well connected by road with Jaipur, Delhi, Ajmer, Jodhpur, and Ahmedabad. State and private buses are available.

Ranthambore and major cities’ road distance (info credit – here)

Delhi to Ranthambore: 381 Km (Approx. 6 Hours via NH8 and NH 11A)
Jaipur to Ranthambore: 180 Km (Approx. 3h via Rajasthan State Hwy 24)
Udaipur to Ranthambore: 388 Km (Approx. 6h 10 min via NH 76 and RJ SH 29)
Agra to Ranthambore: 239 Km (Approx. 4h 23 min via RJ SH 1)
Bharatpur to Ranthambore: 202 Km (Approx. 3h 37 min via RJ SH 1)
Ahmedabad to Ranthambore: 640 Km (Approx. 9h 47 min via NH8 and NH 76)
Mumbai to Ranthambore: 1031 Km (Approx. 16 h 51 min via NH 3)

Best Time to Visit Ranthambore National Park

Ranthambore National Park remains open from the 1st of October – the 30th of June. From July to September the park remains closed. The park is also closed on Wednesdays to reduce stress and protect the wildlife from overexposure to noisy vehicles. According to wildlife experts, the best time to go to Ranthambore is just before the rains, from April to June. However, it is very hot at that time with temperatures touching 40°C. The scarcity of water brings animals out into the open and there are more possibilities of sightings are watering holes. January to March is also a great time to visit as temperatures are cooler and tiger sightings are on the increase. January can be very cold and foggy.

Where to Stay

Most Ranthambore National Park visitors stay at Sawai Madhopur. This sleepy base town has plenty of hotels, guesthouses, and hostels suitable for all budgets.

Ranthambore National Park Safari Zones

Tourists are allowed into 10 different areas inside the Ranthambore National Park. These are numbered from Zones 1-10. Zone 2 has numerous water holes that attract wildlife in the evenings. From my experience, I believe that there is no guarantee what zone you or your group will be allocated. It seemed to me like a raffle ticket although many believe that a good, reputed guide may be able to get you a better zone.

Safari Vehicles

Two options of vehicles are available for the safari. One is a 6-seater open jeep and the other is a 20-seater open canter (a sort of open bus). The jeep is available for both private and shared booking. The canter is, of course, cheaper and the seating is on a first-come-first-serve basis. There is no seat allocation. Try to get on one at the earliest to grab the front seats. It is extremely uncomfortable and bumpy at the back. Full and half-day safaris are no longer available.

Safari Timings

You can choose between morning & evening safaris at Ranthambore National Park. A safari lasts for around 3 hours and you are allowed to explore only the zone dedicated to you. Note that most safaris offer a pick-up and drop service to and from your hotel. Confirm the pick-up time with your operator a day before the safari. Here are the safari timings.

Safari Timings

1st Oct to 31st Oct

Morning Trip: 7.00 A.M. to 10.30 A.M.

Evening Trip: 2.30 P.M. to 6.00 P.M.

1st Nov to 31st Jan

Morning Trip: 7.00 A.M. to 10.30 A.M.

Evening Trip: 2.00 P.M. to 5.30 P.M.

1st Feb to 31st March

Morning Trip: 6.30 A.M. to 10.00 A.M.

Evening Trip: 2.30 P.M. to 6.00 P.M.

1st April to 15th May

Morning Trip: 6.00 A.M. to 9.30 A.M.

Evening Trip: 3.00 P.M. to 6.30 P.M.

15th May to 30th June

Morning Trip: 6.00 A.M. to 9.30 A.M.

Evening Trip: 3.30 P.M. to 7.00 P.M.

Safari Costs

We paid around 21,000 INR for a morning safari for 3 adults and 1 child in a canter. One adult and the child had foreigner fees and two adults paid Indian national fees. However, I am not sure if these are the official fees since the official Rajasthan government site doesn´t work and private operators fleece tourists badly. Online booking is supposedly possible on the official site but we had no luck and the private operators masquerading as official sites are exorbitant. Our experience of the safari and the booking was a complete scam.

Other things to do in the area

Half-day safari to Palighat Chambal Sanctuary or National Chambal Sanctuary (35 km away)
Explore the Ranthambore Fort Complex
See some temples: Chouth Mata Temple and Kala Gaura Bhairav Temple

Travel Tips

Make sure your camera is charged and carry a wildlife photography lens if possible.
Bring your own water as it gets very hot.
Wear sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat.
It is best to avoid loud colours.
Avoid making loud noises.
Do not panic or get over-excited if you see wildlife.
Getting down from your vehicle and walking around is prohibited.
Book safaris early since they get sold out as early as 90 days ahead of the date.
Try to go for multiple safaris for better chances of wildlife spotting.
Carry a binocular if you are interested in bird watching.
Remember that you may not see a tiger. It is not a zoo. Wildlife spotting depends on luck and patience.

Risk to wildlife at Ranthambore National Park

Despite the glorification of an increasing number of tigers, the wildlife at Ranthambore National Park is under threat.

Heavy Vehicle Movement inside the park

This is mostly due to the vehicle movement inside the park that recently killed a leopard. The animal was hit by a bike carrying three people. Following the incident, the forest department has put a three days a week ban on private vehicles carrying devotees to a Ganesh temple inside the park. The road that goes to the temple passes through the territories of many of the park´s tigresses and their cubs. This ban is, however, not enough since devotees flout this rule and the staff shortage at the forest department prevents a constant vigil on these areas.

Inbreeding at Ranthambore National Park

The tiger population in small isolated forests like Ranthambore faces a greater threat of being wiped out due to inbreeding practices. In endangered species, especially, individuals often mate with relatives, and this inbreeding has got harmful genes circulating among themselves, thus decreasing the fitness, survival, and reproduction of such inbred animals. According to wildlife experts, the tigers in Ranthambore are twice inbred as compared to tigers anywhere else and this is starting to pose a great threat to the tigers at Ranthambore National Park. The suggestion to introduce tigers from other parks to Ranthambore is under consideration.

Shrinking of forest areas and conflicts over territories

Tigers are highly territorial animals and the shrinking of forest area at Ranthambore is causing a major concern to wildlife conservationists. The growing number of tigers, despite being good news, is raising alarm as more and more juvenile tigers are looking for territories. This is posed to create conflict between the tigers as well as between the animal and humans since the big cats will have to wander further away from the core zones for newer territories.