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Hoa Lu: the perfect day trip from Hanoi

maverickbirdJuly 7, 20197 views
AsiaOutside IndiaVietnam0 Comments7 views 0

Hoa Lu served as the capital of Vietnam in the 10th and 11th centuries. It lies 90 kilometers south of Hanoi in the village of Truong Yen Thuong village, Truong Yen Commune of Hoa Lu district in Ninh Binh province. For centuries the mighty rulers of the North made Hoa Lu the seat of their power and it was the economic and political center as well. The “ancient capital” (as Hoa Lu is known) used to be a formidable fortified city with strong Inner and Outer Citadels. Spread over a large area, the city included defensive earthen walls, palaces, temples, and shrines and was surrounded and protected beautiful karst mountains.

Table of Contents

  • Hoa Lu is a journey to rural Vietnam
  • Here lie the remnants of a glorious capital city
  • The fall of Hoa Lu
  • Erstwhile royal roost is now a peasant land
  • Hoa Lu Travel Facts
    • How to Reach
    • Attractions of Hoa Lu
    • King Dinh Temple
    • King Le Temple
    • Nhat Tru Pagoda
    • Other Attractions near Hoa Lu
      • Tam Coc – Bich Dong
  • Truong Yen Festival
Hoa Lu lies in the heart of rural Vietnam

Hoa Lu lies in the heart of rural Vietnam

Hoa Lu is a journey to rural Vietnam

Presently, none of this remains and the only remnants of a capital city so glorious are a few 10th-century royal temples and the craggy limestone hills. Hoa Lu is a pleasant day trip from Hanoi and is usually clubbed with Tam Coc. Most small group tours stop at Hoa Lu before venturing deeper into Tam Coc and it is a pleasant place to get introduced to the rustic beauty of Ninh Binh province. The first sight which usually meets most visitors at Hoa is of a Vietnamese man in a conical bamboo hat and his beloved water buffalo. Now water buffalos are as special to the Vietnamese as elephants are to the Indians and the former makes use of their uncrowned national animal better. One can see them everywhere in rural Vietnam and they form the backbone of the Vietnamese peasants.

Hoa Lu is a perfect day trip from Hanoi

Here lie the remnants of a glorious capital city

Thus, with that sight, you can imagine yourself being in the heart of the rural Ninh Binh and it is a beautiful hinterland instead of a once glorious capital city. The temples which stand there do not appear very striking to the foreign eyes, though their beauty is soothing. The whole complex is shaded with lush trees, cobbled paths, flowering shrubs, stone statues, and lily filled ponds. The prettiest sight, however, is that of the ancient capital being hemmed in by emerald green paddy fields which stretch up to the craggy limestone hills.

You may like: A DAY TRIP TO PERFUME PAGODA FROM HANOI

hoa lu and its attraction

The Vietnamese peasant and his buffalo

The fall of Hoa Lu

At first sight, Hoa Lu or the remains of it look isolated and for centuries this was the biggest advantage of the former capital. The only access to the capital city was through the interconnected Hoang Long River channels which ultimately led to the ocean. This magnificent river system stretched from the provinces of Ninh Binh and other northern provinces to Hanoi and served as the lifeline of the empire. It was used for transportation, trade, irrigation, and daily water supplies. Though this remoteness helped save Hoa Lu from foreign attacks, the limited access to the outside world led to its economic and political downfall. These and many other reasons compelled the Ly Dynasty to shift its capital city to Hanoi and Hoa Lu soon got lost in the cracks of time.

Suggested Read: HANOI PHOTO ESSAY

Very less of Hoa Lu remains nowadays

Erstwhile royal roost is now a peasant land

I had read about Hoa Lu before visiting the site. Based on my experiences of India’s national heritage sites, I went there with an expectation to see gloriously restored ruins. What met my eyes were ghosts of the past and the common peasant lifestyle predominating the beautiful region. This shocked and awed me at the same time and I remember murmuring to myself as we were leaving Hoa Lu the strong words, “How the mighty have fallen!”.

Recommended Read: MY VIETNAM TRIP IN A NUTSHELL

village near Hoa Lu

A village near Hoa Lu

Hoa Lu Travel Facts

How to Reach

Option 1 – Take a bus or train from Hanoi to Ninh Binh City. Hoa Lu is about 11 kilometers from Ninh Binh City. So one can easily take a taxi from Ninh Binh to Hoa Lu. For detailed information on Hanoi to Ninh Binh transportation, check out this useful guide.

Option 2 – Many Hanoi tour agencies offer a day trips to Hoa Lu and Tam Coc for around $21/per person. This fee includes a buffet lunch, necessary entrance fees, transportation and/or bicycle rental. The tour is clubbed with Tam Coc or Bich Dong and starts early around 5:30 AM. One reaches Hanoi back at 7:00 PM. Hanoi tour operators also offer a transfer to Ninh Binh. Hunt around for the best bargain.

Beautiful lush green Hoa Lu complex

Attractions of Hoa Lu

Although the original fortified citadel of Hoa Lu no longer exists, the palaces and temples in Hoa Lu are still intact. One can visit the following temples at the “ancient capital”.

King Dinh Temple

King Dinh was the king of the first centralized feudal state of Vietnam. Since he unified the region, the inhabitants built this temple to commemorate and worship him. Visitors can also worship his sons, his wives, and his subordinates at this temple. It faces the mountain Ma Yen, which is the tomb of King Dinh.

King Le Temple

Located 500 meters from the King Dinh temple, this shrine is dedicated to King Le, the first king of the second feudal state of Vietnam. This temple is a little bit smaller than the one of King Dinh.

The two temples of King Dinh and King Le are special due to the statues that decorate them. Both the temples highlight the best of the ancient Vietnamese architecture.

Nhat Tru Pagoda

Nhat Tru Pagoda was built in the 10th century. It was used as a meeting place for the monks. At that time, monks were much revered in the Vietnamese culture and were often invited by the kings to discuss important national issues.

One of the stone statues of Hoa Lu

Other Attractions near Hoa Lu

Tam Coc – Bich Dong

The three Tam Coc Caves were created by the Ngo Dong River flowing through a mountain. A local sampan ride through the river is very popular and is usually clubbed with a Hoa Lu day trip. Bich Dong is the second largest cave in Vietnam.

Truong Yen Festival

Between March 8 – March 10, Hoa Lu holds a festival commemorating its reign from 968-1010 A.D. The festival includes a beautiful procession, plays (usually about Dinh Tien Hoang), contests, games and a fair. Besides the ceremony, the festival hosts many traditional games such as boat racing, wrestling, and cheo singing.

Hoa Lu is a popular day trip from Hanoi

Lily-filled pond and a stunning rural backdrop of Hoa Lu

Hoa Lu was an erstwhile capital

I loved Hoa Lu

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Hello! This is Svetlana, mother, writer, entrepreneur, and a cloud gypsy. Join me as I experience the world and create beautiful photo stories, travel tips, and collect recipes from all over the world.
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maverickbirdSMaverickbird@maverickbirdS·
6h

The exterior, the interior and the intricate details of the #Badami cave temples. #Karnataka #IncredibleIndia #DekhoApnaDesh

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maverickbirdSMaverickbird@maverickbirdS·
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The ethereal beauty of #Badami in #karnataka. #IncredibleIndia #DekhoApnaDesh

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maverickbirdSMaverickbird@maverickbirdS·
12 Apr

Just posted a photo @ Badami cave temples https://www.instagram.com/p/CNkFp1Jp_kL/?igshid=ner2942jpod0

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maverickbirdSMaverickbird@maverickbirdS·
12 Apr

#Badami Cave Temples in #Karnataka are truly magnificent. The streaked rose red stones have been scoured into caves that are covered with exquisite carvings. #DekhoApnaDesh #IncredibleIndia

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maverickbirdSMaverickbird@maverickbirdS·
11 Apr

A candid #badami travel moment. #Karnataka #IncredibleIndia

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maverickbirds

To explore the Badami caves in peaceful solitude, To explore the Badami caves in peaceful solitude, one has to get up early in the morning when the air is cool and the red sandstone hills glow a soft amber.. The pesky local monkeys and langurs seem too sleepy to be annoying and the Agasthya Lake lies tranquil like a sheet of molten emerald. 

During my visit, I explored the Badami caves mostly on such quiet mornings and kept the long evenings to read about the history of the place. The next day, armed with the knowledge I continued with my exploration.

I found Badami to be magnificent. The cave temples not only showcase the Chalukya dynasty‘s secularism but also their love for art. 
I liked the name Badami too and the hills indeed were as brown as nuts (badam=almond in Hindi). The soft rose-red sandstone of the area was scoured to create the incredible caves and the views from the top were simply gorgeous. 

Commissioned by the Early Chalukya rulers, the rock-cut Badami caves were sculpted into temples during the 6th and 8th centuries and they are some of India’s most exquisite shrines. 

Their simple exteriors give way to intricately carved interiors. Lavish carvings cover every inch of friezes below the columns and the main hall of each temple is supported by massive pillars. The womb-like main shrine is located in the deepest part of the temple and some caves show faint traces of beautiful murals.
Located in the Bagalkot district of northern Karna Located in the Bagalkot district of northern Karnataka in south India, Badami is known for its exquisite rock-cut cave temples, red sandstone cliffs, and an emerald green artificial lake Agasthya. 

Large tracts of verdant lush farmland surround Badami and the caves boast of some of India’s finest rock-cut architecture. The site, too which goes by the same name extends east into a gorge between two red sandstone hills and a crumbling ancient fort complex tops them both. 

A smattering of idyllic rustic houses are scattered at the feet of the sandstone hills and complete with pesky monkeys, inquisitive folks, colourful village markets, jingling bells of bullocks ploughing the fields, rows of palm groves with feathery frond-like leaves, and miles of large, blooming sunflowers, Badami is charmingly atmospheric. 

Narrow village roads meander through them all and occasional outcrops of violet wildflower-covered sandstone hills make it even lovelier. A few years ago, I visited Badami from Hyderabad with a travel blogger friend. 

It was a long, hot ride and we reached our destination in around 7 hours. The hot noon sun made the ride even more difficult and we were nearly ready to give up when glimpses of Badami showed up between the hills in front of us. 

From our elevated position, we could see the whole stretch of green and brown farmland disappear into a soft golden sunset, and palm trees cast long shadows on them. Small hills broke the flat tapestry of nature and endless fields of sunflowers smiled at us. It was a sight that took our breaths away.
At the beach, life is different. Time doesn’t mo At the beach, life is different. Time doesn’t move hour to hour but mood to moment. We live by the currents, plan by the tides and follow the sun. – Sandy Gringas. 

#havelockisland #andamanandnicobarislands #IncredibleIndia #DekhoApnaDesh

For more gorgeous photos of this island, check out the blog under Andaman and Nicobarese Islands category in India. Link in bio. @ Havelock Island , Andaman and Nicobar Islands, India @ Havelock Island , Andaman and Nicobar Islands, India
Come walk with me, take off your shoes, let’s wa Come walk with me, take off your shoes, let’s walk the beach with only the moon to light the path and waves to hear you tell me you love me. Why does the ocean rock the moon to sleep every night? So the sun will wake and kiss the beach. – J Henson

Presenting the tropical paradise called #havelockisland in #incredibleindia

For more gorgeous photos of this island, check out the blog under Andaman and Nicobarese Islands category in India. Link in bio.
One of the most precious and expensive spices in t One of the most precious and expensive spices in the world, saffron is predominantly grown in Kashmir in India and the Kashmiri variety is considered to be of the best quality. 

Believed to have been brought to India by the Persian rulers around 500.B.C, the conquerors planted saffron corms into the local soil after taking over Kashmir. Local folklore, however, refutes this theory and according to traditional Kashmiri legends, saffron was introduced to the region during the 11th and 12th centuries A.D by two Sufi ascetics. 

For a valley as beautiful as Kashmir, it seems quite befitting that the precious flower should be growing there for centuries, and during peacetime, it has high potential as an eco-tourism prospect. 

Found to be growing in small patches throughout the entire Kashmir and Kishtwar valley of Jammu province, this expensive herb is a specialty of Pampore, Khrew, and Shar villages. Pampore even has exclusive saffron or zaffran colony and that was my first destination upon landing in Srinagar.

Located quite close to the main city, Pampore was on the Srinagar Jammu national Highway and I could smell the flowers even before the fields arrived. Their fragrance was mild but steady and they perforated through the thick dusty fumes of the highway traffic. 

The morning sun was not yet visible through the rural haze and the endless stretch of violet fields melted into a soft, wispy distance. To me, it seemed like an unhindered sea of mauve and the flowers undulated all the way from the road to the silent stony mountains. In the midst of all the browns and violets, the occasional bright spots of colour were provided by the clothes of the saffron collectors, who were perpetually stooped from their waist for flower picking. Needless to say, it was an unforgettable sight?

Have you been to a saffron field?
April is coming and the Indira Gandhi Memorial Tul April is coming and the Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden in Srinagar is gearing up for the largest tulip festival in Asia.

Since last year, the festival was canceled due to the pandemic, the mass blooming of the flowers saw no visitors. This year, however, the organizers are geared to welcome guests again and they have spruced up the charming garden for that purpose. 

Some of the highlights of the Kashmir Tulip Festival are
* 	Parrot Tulip– They are ruffled petals in different hues that depict the plumages of the tropical parrot.
* 	Double Blooms– Instead of one petal of a standard tulip, the double bloom has got many layers in it.
* 	Bi-Color Standard Tulip– They display different tulips in terms of colours when it is compared with the standard tulip.
* 	Fringed Tulip– The shape and edge are fringed and frilly.
* 	Fosteriana Tulip– They differ in measurements and got pretty buds.
* 	Rembrandts– pale coloured tulips that are tall.
* 	Lily-Flowering Tulip– Flowers having pointed petals that is very long with an arch at its tips.
* 	Standard Tulip– They are the normal tulips available from the local gardeners and florists.
* 	Triumph– These are a wide range of dual-coloured, splendid tones and shades are the different features of these tulips.
* Single Late Tulip – These are cup-shaped tulips with a wide range of colours.

This year, the 2021 tulip festival in Srinagar is from the 1st of April to 20th of April.
Spring in Kashmir is beautiful beyond words. For m Spring in Kashmir is beautiful beyond words. For many decades, the appearance of the almond blossoms in Badamwari meant that the spring was finally there in Kashmir and the sighting was celebrated with much joy. Delicately beautiful, an almond flower with its pale pink petals, resembles a painted umbrella when fully bloomed and it is symbolically connected with Kashmir’s social celebrations. A fully flowering almond tree is a sight to behold too and the old residents of the #Kashmir Valley recollect their prettiness with misty eyes. It is because a blooming almond tree meant the beginning of Navreh in Kashmir and in olden times, the Kashmiri Pandits celebrated it as their New Year festival. Those used to be the days, when people irrespective of their religion, visited the garden to enjoy the blooming almond trees on Navreh. The Badamwari in #Srinagar was the local hotspot for the almond blossom viewing. #incredibleindiaofficial
#Yousmarg or “The Meadows of Jesus” is a lovel #Yousmarg or “The Meadows of Jesus” is a lovely hill station 47 kilometers away from Srinagar in the Badgam district of #Kashmir. There are many who believe that Jesus traveled to Kashmir during his exodus and stayed at Yousmarg for some time. I had to attend a wedding on my way to Yousmarg, so did not have much time to explore it to my heart’s content. Moreover being late autumn a lot of trekking trails were inaccessible. So, it was one of those trips where the journey was nicer than the destination.
#Kashmir is my favourite place in the world and I #Kashmir is my favourite place in the world and I truly believe in Mughal emperor Jahangir’s opinion of, “If there is Paradise on earth, it is this, it is this, it is this.” 

I have visited Kashmir many times and have dear friends who make me feel at home there. The landscape of Kashmir is breathtaking, the food is to die for and the handicrafts are one of the finest in the entire country.

Spirited, gentle, and beautiful, Kashmir is unforgettable and the seasons seem to have a really good time there. Kashmiri spring is moist, fresh green, and fuzzy soft and makes the rivers rush through the valley in a busy murmur. 

Summer ushers in flowers, sunshine, and dazzling distant peaks, while autumns come bedecked in gold, reds, and rows of blooming violet saffron. 

Winter is all about pristine white when every home in the capital city of Srinagar, spews curling blue smoke, and fruits at local markets bounce off jewel colours. 

I love Kashmir in all seasons and this post is a tribute to this lovely region. Presenting some of my most beautiful travel memories through Kashmir, paradise on earth.
As goofy as it sounds, but I simply cannot resist As goofy as it sounds, but I simply cannot resist taking pictures wearing the traditional dress of a place. Thus I have a secret hoard of me wearing a range of costumes starting from traditional Mongolian affair, kimono, a flamenco dress and (hold your breath) a dirndl.

My favourite amongst them remain the traditional Kashmiri dress and it’s simply gorgeous. While the pheran (a long embroidered overshirt) is both comfy and feminine, its the traditional Kashmiri jewellery that stole my heart. I am a jewellery fan and handmade local neckpieces and headgear are what I lust for.

Kashmiri jewellery has abundant use of both and these ornaments are traditionally made of either gold and silver. They are embellished with multi-colored stones or pearls and Kashmiris have a thing for blue sapphires, a stone very close to my heart.

Some of the most well-known and frequently worn jewelry pieces in the past are Jiggni and Tikka. These are headpieces, that were worn on the forehead. Triangular, semi-circular or circular, their shape depended on the occasion. Atta-Hor is an ear piece that was usually worn by the Kashmiri Pandit women. It hangs over both the sides of the wearer’s head and is connected by a chain.

Deji-Hor (long chain like earrings) are the quintessential jewellery of married Kashmiri Pandit women. They symbolize their marital status and are worn during festivities. A friend of mine commented that in this picture I simply glowed. It could be because of the pretty clothes or that I was in Kashmir, a place I love the most.
#Kannur is beautiful and quiet. Can there a better #Kannur is beautiful and quiet. Can there a better combination for slow travelers? 

To begin with, Kannur is located on the Malabar Coast, a place that I always wanted to visit after reading Amitava Ghosh’s ‘In an Antique Land’. 

The novel consists of two travelers’ tales: one the writer himself in his new expatriate life in Egypt, and the other of a medieval Indian slave of a Jewish Arab merchant who lived in Egypt. 

The Indian slave, who acted as the Indian representative of his master’s spice trade lived on the Malabar Coast several centuries ago and his letters to his master are redolent with descriptions of the scenic beauty, cultural intricacies, and natural lushness of the area. 

Kannur, in the words of the slave, was a place of golden sands, crashing waves, green coconut palm groves, spice gardens, and quiet fish-filled lagoons. Backwaters meandered through the area and hundreds of birds lived in its mangrove forests.

In my eyes, Kannur seemed to have not changed much since the days of the medieval Malabar spice trade. It is still quiet, lush, full of trees, birds, and golden sands. The beaches are tranquil and the town, though bigger and more commercialized, still retains an old-time charm. 

It is a town of traditional low-rise buildings with sloping tiled roofs, red cement floors, and rich wooden panelings. Most of the well-to-do local residents of Kannur live along the coast and coconut palms grow in rich abundance. 

The villages around Kannur and all along the Malabar Coast abound with intriguing cultural rituals and the famous Theyyam is performed here on auspicious nights.
Some of the performing arts 🎭 of #kerala 1. K Some of the performing arts 🎭 of #kerala 

1. Kathakali, a song and dance drama full of eye and face expressions and fantastic elaborate costumes. This dance is generally performed by men.
2. Mohiniyattam, a graceful classical dance that is also known as the ‘dance of the enchantress’.
3. Kalaripayattu, an ancient traditional martial arts dance form that was developed in Kerala.
4. Theyyam, an intriguing folk dance usually performed during religious ceremonies in northern Kerala, it includes amazing costumes, face painting and trance rituals.
5. Pulikali, the tiger dance of Thrissur, involves pot bellied body painted men dancing to the beats of traditional drums.

Which one is your favourite?
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